GIGABYTE B650 Gaming X AX Motherboard

Overall the board is great. Lets me connect everything, installation was about as simple as you can get. The UEFI looks nice and is smartly laid out, with things organized neatly into tabs. It’s hard to find a better deal if you’re looking for a B650 board with M.2 support. And having debugging LEDs will help narrow down any issues that prevent posting.

Setup was concerning though. As other said, the DDR5 training took a lot longer than I thought. I had to leave the sticks in and powered on to a black screen for a good 5 minutes before anything happened. I did power off and check the seating, that the DIMMs were in the correct slot for dual channel, etc. etc. Training takes a while, and makes you think nothing is happening. Gigabyte if you read this, please give us some indication about the training process, such as the LED’s flashing to indicate it’s doing SOMETHING.

Second, the wifi adapter in this is GARBAGE. I kept getting “Connected, no internet” in windows, even with my antenna pointed in the direction of the router. Eventually, I did get it to connect – for some reason it did not like my Extender and refused to connect to it at all, despite it being right outside my bedroom door. The main router, even though further away, did let me connect with lackluster speeds for both being Wifi 6e. As you’d expect given it was further away, but the second someone stood in front of the router, no internet. Eventually, I gave up, and installed the adapter from my old PC and disabled the motherboard one in device manager.

Lastly, Windows 11 refuses to install with this motherboard. For whatever reason. I checked the requirements: My 7800X3D is on the approved list, I have 64 GB of RAM (16 times more than the minimum, for those of you playing at home), and my 7700xt has DX12. So I can narrow it down to either UEFI or TMP, both of which are the motherboard. So now I got to refund my Windows 11 key, as I just installed Windows 10 and used my old PC’s windows key.

But, now that I got past those speed bumps, no other issues have popped up. Overall I’d say I’m pretty satisfied, and you probably will be too. Just be wary of the connectivity and first boot issues that I did.

AM5 boards had a rough introduction, but now that it’s later in the Zen 4 cycle it’s pretty safe to say the early teething problems are solved. I am delighted by how totally solid and feature-laden this board is, and it proves why I’ve been buying Gigabyte boards over and over again for decades without regret. The whole thing is just slathered in thoughtful design that makes perfect sense.

There’s one full PCIe x16 slot, with all channels available. The other slots can fit a full x16 board (like if you wanted to add more video cards or a Tesla card or something), but the lanes will be automatically bifurcated as you do so.

There are four memory slots and the board can accommodate up to 128GB of memory. Be aware, however, that Zen 4 memory controllers have some limitations of how fast they can go when you start filling up more memory channels. You can run two slots at 6000+ MT/s, no problem — and it’s easy to hop into the BIOS and enable that — but when you populate another two slots… things are going to slow down. Even the massively overpowered 7900-series is likely to only be able to run all 4 slots at 3600MT/s. Maybe 4800 if you’re lucky, but don’t count on it.

There are THREE, count em, THREE, M.2 NVMe slots for storage. The first two, upper ones, are faster and connected to more of the PCIe lanes. The third one, should you choose to use it, is slower, and only has 2 lanes available to it. If you’re planning to add a big-ass but inexpensive lower spec SSD, put it in the lower slot and reserve the upper slots for your main disks.

The CPU slot comes with a bracket, and it’s fine for most standard coolers. If you’re using a tower type cooler like a Noctua chromax, you’ll have to change out the bracket. It’s easy to do, just a few screws on the back of the board.

The CPU power plug, like almost every board, is in the annoyingly inconvenient spot in the upper left. Remember to hook it up before you screw the board in, so you don’t have to try to jam your hand into the worst possible place in the case. The ATX main board power is along the upper edge and a little easier to get to.

Speaking of plugs, this thing is just FESTOONED with front and back panel plugs. I’m an avid user of front panel stuff, and I was very happy to see how generous the front panel plug situation is. Of course, the usual old-school front panel controls—power, reset, lights—are the old school annoying single-Dupont jumper wire type. They’re as annoying as ever to hook up, and along the lower edge. However, they are clearly labeled, silkscreened, and even color-coded.

About that back panel, though: I don’t care about WiFi on a stationary desktop. The Ethernet plug is *right there* on the back panel. But I do want to use the Bluetooth. However, in order to use this board’s Bluetooth capabilities, you have to hook up the antenna thing. I’m happy to report that while I didn’t really *want* to do this, it was easy to do—just two of those micro coaxial cables—and the antenna even has a magnetic base to keep it from flopping all over the place. The Bluetooth works great, and that’s kind of a miracle. Most Bluetooth chips are terrible.

Remember how I mentioned the BIOS is easy to set up? It’s also incredibly deep. You can get down and dirty, with a level of granularity and setting that is just beautiful. This is, truly, a top-tier overclocker’s board. But even if you aren’t going to get into that, you want to pop in there and do a couple of things:

First, update the BIOS. Usually, it’s not worth bothering to do this. 99% of BIOS updates in the world don’t fix anything for anyone or are only for specific weird configurations. In this case, it’s not true. YOU WANT TO UPDATE. In the AM5 world, BIOS updates come with real, useful, upgrades to performance and stability that everyday users can enjoy, and this board needs the new one. Why? The new one makes it faster, literally just faster and better, when you use DDR5-6000 or more.

Second, set the “EXPO 1” profile for your memory. The default is kind of a “safe mode” thing which works, but totally wastes the actual speed of the memory you bought.

Third, set Precision Boost Overdrive to “80 Level 2”. Unless you bought a CPU cooler upgrade, then set it to “90 Level 2.” The first number is the target temp it’s going to run, and the second number is how much it will reduce the voltage of your CPU. “2” is pretty much the guaranteed recommended setup.

Now, reboot and enjoy your AWESOME new Gigabyte board.

Complete garbage motherboard. My brother who has over 15 year industry IT knowledge and has built and serviced hundreds of computers was disgusted by this board.

1. There is no actual instruction manual just a pathetic 4 page fold out brochure. We had to go to the gigabyte website to get an actual usable manual.

2. Nothing but issues once system is built. It simply would not boot into bios. We had to remove internal power battery and discharge it to even boot.

3. As stated it wouldn’t boot. Another issue that stopped it booting was that it simply would not start if a second RAM slot was in use. Reducing it to 1 being used allowed us to finally boot it. It was then a struggle to get everything installed and once we finally managed it we tried installing the 2nd RAM module again and the board would just not work.

DO NOT BUY this board it’s got multiple flaws and these are documented by several buyers of the item.

I had to return this item AND pay for postage which cost my £7. Terrible purchase.

Bought an ASUS gaming board as replacement and this board was 100 times better to install and work with.

Its actually legit and real 100% recommend for only 650 SAR