Power Stop Brake Kit For Ford F-150 K6268-36

Needed a long-lasting solution for braking performance without breaking the bank. Powerstop has always delivered on their quality and lifespan of parts. No more warped rotors and greatly improved stopping power. Installation is easy enough for someone handy with tools. All parts fit perfectly and the entire kit costs less than having the shop replace just your brake pads.

PowerStop you’ve done it again. Amazing product, perfect fit, well balanced and not a single issue or complaint from me. I’ve bought over a dozen of the Z23 and Z36 sets over the years and they only get better each time. The only thing I wish was in the hardware kit was new bolts as 1 of mine broke when removing the rear caliper. Definitely not a downfall to this kit by any means, just would be nice to have those to replace as well.

First brake replacement for my 2016 F150. Packaging and installation went excellent, no complaints. Right off the bat I noticed the braking was way more than what I was used to. Even better than my brand new Silverado work truck with a few thousand miles on it. After 2,000 ish miles, still amazing stopping power. My only complaint is I am getting a squeak whenever I am reversing. Maybe they still haven’t set yet? Not sure.

Replaced my 2015 F150 OEM brakes with this kit. Everything fit well, went together easy, and looks good. Bedded the pads in and the truck is topping better than ever before. Super smooth and well behaved braking. Clearly an upgrade to the Ford OEM capability. So good job Power Stop!! Also, notable mention for Amazon and UPS. The box weighed 110 lbs, took a lot to get it to me in good shape, thank you.

Some items you might find useful:
1) My OEM brakes lasted 90,000 and I still had plenty of shoe left. Probably because I do not do a lot of towing or stop and go driving.
2) The front brake pads needing replacing because they were cracked, the back were just fine. I replaced them all to keep everything uniform. Also, I am about to tow a car on a trailer about 1000 miles so I want my brakes in top shape.
3) All four rotors were stuck. I found that heating the rotor with a MAP gas torch while I tapped on the back of the rotor was very effective on all four. You do not need to heat the entire rotor, just the portion that the lug bolts go through. Stay away from the center hub, you want that staying cool. And a “tap” is swing hard enough that you will want hearing protection but you can do with your left hand while you hold the torch with your right hand (right handed people). The back of the rotor where the brake shoe travels will get small divits in it so only do this if you do not plan on re-using them.
4) Don’t forget to wire brush the rust off where the new rotors will contact with the hub.
5) Don’t over lubricate the brake pad guides. Those are the stainless clip-in’s that the kit provides replacements for. Just a small amount of lube will do. I put a thin cote on the brake pad ends that contacts the guides and on the guides where they contact brake pad ends.
6) Don’t forget to re-lube the travelers and replace the bushings.
7) Torque specs were not easy to find. However, some of the same numbers came up on the more authoratative references. Here is what I used; front the torque: 184 ft-lbs and 27 ft-lbs for the large and small bolts (2 of each) and on the back the torque: 111 ft-lbs and 27 ft-lbs. This was also consistent with the torque range for the bolts. Although consistency is not enough to go on. Many factors were taken into account by the designer so I tend to use factory spec as long as it is consistent with the range for the bolt.
8) I used red loctite on the large bolts. Looked like they had used that at the factory. No loctite on the bolts that thread into the travelers. When the torque value is determined the use of a thread locking compound is considered since it changes the running torque. This in itself is a good reason to use loctite if it was use at the factory. Although none of the videos I watched used loctite. So it might have been an overkill. I am the engineer with a super well equipped garage that has been overhauling my own engines for over 40 years and I have found that what appears to be overkill to a mechanic is frequently what is required to do the job right and produce a reliable result.
9) One final thing, make sure to open the brake fluid reservoir and remove some fluid before you compress the pistons and using one of the old pads and a C-clamp to compress the pistons works well.

Compared to getting the job done at a shop; you will save a few hundred bucks, you will get a better job, you will have better pads and rotors, it will look better, your truck will stop better, you will avoid the frustration and drama associated with dealing with a shop and it will take about the same amount of time. So if you have a few tools and do not mind getting your hands dirty this is a great Saturday afternoon DIY project.

This was exactly as described. Fit and finish was awesome. Install was a breeze other than removing the old rotors.

Packaging was the only thing I can complain about. The rotors were in their own boxes and the brake pads and clips separate and loose in a large box. All parts in the box were loose and flopping around and the vac was barely held together when delivered. I know these items are heavy but the interior packaging needs better attention. Needs either foam or more material to hold stuff from moving about inside the box.

Good fit, works very well and arrived quickly.